Big bore 734cc piston broken

chuddly wrote:

sleeves are by far the best way to go...they will outlast the other 10 to 1

i think so, too. they used to get a bad rap because of poor metallurgy (differing metals with varying heat/cool rates).
i think they have found better composites to control warpage.
i guess we'll find out soon enough!

Ok guys just getting back from a rough weekend and caught up. Please dont jump to conclusions and make assumptions about quality of the cylinder here.

Look at the corners of the piston. They are melted. This motor suffered from detonation created by either lack of octane or a lean condition that created heat. The piston caused the damage to the cylinder and that is exactly what happens to a nikasil cylinder when damaged. You will see some aluminum transfer from the piston and some Nikasil removed. Nikasil is a sprayed on coating and when damaged will come off.

On another note a sleeve is not always better. There is a reason we no longer like to sleeve cylinders. Sleeves shift and move and cause sealing issues. Also the heat dissipation characteristics are much better with nikasil.

Nate
Alba Racing

sorry, nate, you're right. it's your baby. with the internet it's just too easy to type before you think

didn't they used to make solid nikasil liners for 2-strokes? the only problems i remember with them was that if your fuel had high sulfur content the sulfur would acidify and damage the sleeve.

WV Hot Rod Rhino wrote:

looks like some dust got past the filter...what air filter are you using

WV Hot Rod Rhino wrote:

i would use a uni from now on....check the drain on the intake to make sure its still there...and check for leaks...you will be able to see where it started....did you check ring gap when you installed

Hey James I found the cause of the problem!

Missing rubber cover which closes drainage hole in the bottom of the intake
pipe.
It seems that the dust came from the hole to inside of the engine,
causing the broken piston and scratches cylinder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qy-hLJzT8RI










Thanks James

I'm glad you figured out the problem! That little rubber plug is hidden unless you know to look for it. Are you going to rebuild it just as it was, or are you going to build it differently?

Good video. That will do it for sure. Sorry you had to find out that way.

seen it a couple times..that sux but least you will know what did it and to check it....i check mine after every ride...happened to me long time ago....sweat came up real fast on my forehead when i seen it..lol

ChrisH wrote:

I'm glad you figured out the problem! That little rubber plug is hidden unless you know to look for it. Are you going to rebuild it just as it was, or are you going to build it differently?

Thanks Chris,
Without hesitation I will stay with the Big Bore, after the experience of torque and power do not want to go back.
I will be closed this hole by screw, to guarantee that no leakage of anything through and caused me trouble again.

WV Hot Rod Rhino wrote:

seen it a couple times..that sux but least you will know what did it and to check it....i check mine after every ride...happened to me long time ago....sweat came up real fast on my forehead when i seen it..lol

James you're the leader!
You always come to the correct solution.
Thank you for helping me.

banchee6 wrote:

Good video. That will do it for sure. Sorry you had to find out that way.

Thanks Eric

Briki wrote:

Thanks Chris,
Without hesitation I will stay with the Big Bore, after the experience of torque and power do not want to go back.
I will be closed this hole by screw, to guarantee that no leakage of anything through and caused me trouble again.

I hear you loud and clear!
When I raced my buddy with 27" Radial Outlaws with his stock motor and JBS sheave against my Rhino 734 on 30" Bighorns, I still beat him bad in a drag race. The motor work is amazing! I could not go back to stock at this point. The power and torque are addicting!

ok I got to ask about the intake , I 've not been around a 700 rhino , but is the drain in the intake between air filter an throttle body ? or is it before air filter

There is a drain in the air box, and a drain on the tube that goes under the floorboard which connects the air box to the throttle body.

So to answer your question, both.

ok got it now , that's a bad set-up

rhino727 wrote:

ok got it now , that's a bad set-up

Yeah, it has it's advantages and disadvantages. Briki found one of the disadvantages. Supposedly, this is Yamaha's answer to a quieter intake. The Rhino 660 has the air intake in the cab, which some people said can be loud. Guys were "snorkeling" their Rhinos to move the air intake forward, under the floorboard, and up under the hood. Supposedly, it helped the noise (although I cannot say for sure as I have never owned nor ridden in a Rhino 660). When the Yamaha Rhino 700 debuted, it featured a relocated air intake for a quieter ride.

In doing this, Yamaha also moved the airbox up under the hood. The result was the dirty air comes unto the the airbox right behind the pod, is filtered, and then clean air has to travel down about 18", then travel under the floorboard about 36", then travel up another 15", enter into an air chamber with an intake air temperature sensor and an crankcase vent tube, and then finally breathe into the throttle body. As you can see, there are a lot of bends and runners to the intake.

One necessary thing you have to do is be able to drain that intake tube, should water get into the intake. The "pipe drain" as it is listed in the parts fische lets any water out of that tube that may get into the airbox. The booger bear is that you got to make sure that pipe drain is in tact, because it is on the clean side of the airbox. Our friend Briki just showed us, unfortunately, what happens when that pipe drain is not in place.

My heart hurts for you, buddy!

The other question I have is how restrictive is this intake design? I have no idea. All I know is that it does seem to work real good for water and mud riding. As long as the pipe trains are in place, a stock Rhino 700 can take on some pretty deep water and stay completely dry. My airbox will take on some water if I hit deep puddles (like over floorboard deep) at high speed, but it is usually just a cup or so. Sometimes there will be a little water in the lower intake tube, which is easy to drain out because of this pipe drain in question.

Good luck on your re-build, Briki! I hope you get it up and running soon.

put a fuel line clamp on it so it cant get knocked off

I've just bought the same kit from TEAM ALBA RACING. and now I'm waiting to receive the shipment after this weekend maybe.

RHINO 700 BIG BORE CYLINDER KIT 734CC 105.5 CP 11:1 PISTON
Kit includes:
1 new CP piston 105.5mm, 11:1 compression, rings, clips, rod pin
1 new Alba Racing 105.5 734cc cylinder with a reinforced design and nikasil coating on the sleeve
1 new Cometic top end gasket set
This is a bolt on kit - no case or other modifications are necessary.

That looks awfully familiar...

Good work! I got mine all back together about a week ago. The power is good. Keep posting pics, and make sure that little plug on the bottom of the intake is secure! LOL

lookin good!!

ChrisH wrote:

That looks awfully familiar...

Good work! I got mine all back together about a week ago. The power is good. Keep posting pics, and make sure that little plug on the bottom of the intake is secure! LOL

WV Hot Rod Rhino wrote:

lookin good!!

Thanks

Chris did you you figure out your oil consumption issue?

Swampdonkey wrote:

Chris did you you figure out your oil consumption issue?

Yes, it turns out I had the wrong oil rings in my motor. No wonder it was burning oil and getting the oil dirty within a very short time! Nate from Alba personally handled my issue and got me set up. It's running better than ever and doesn't consume any oil!

Congratulations Chris,glad you got your problems all fixed,kinda gives u that warm and fuzzy feeling don't it!!!:[URL=http://ww:[URL=http://ww