The Rhino alternator, what can it handle

How big of a stereo/draw can the rhino stock alternator handle? I have a stereo system from my old car just sitting in my garage that I thought might be fun to slap into my rhino. I have a 1000w sub amp that would be pushing around 650w, and a 450w mid amp that would be maxed out, as well as a capacitor...is this too much? No light bars or anything else for me at this point in time anyway, all other electrical draws would be stock on my 09 700.

That is a bunch ! Good thing is the 700 has a better stator than the 660. I think the only way You will be able to tell, is to hook it up and see what the draw is. I do run an amp in mine and so far so good ! My amp is only a 250 watt with no stereo. I run a dual battery system with all accessories on the secondary battery and a smart switch connecting the batteries. When able, the stator charges both batteries, but if draw is to much, I only drain second battery. Maybe someone will chime in that has a system like You have !

I have a Kenwood head unit hooked up to one Bose and another siren speaker. No amps and I can still hear it over the motor. So far so good.

Here is a study that I did on the 660 charging system a long while ago. The 2 columns on the right are for the stock 660 setup and the 2 columns on the left are for an aftermarket Rectifier/Regulator module installed in place of the stock R/R. Of the 2 column sets, the left column is with the engine at idle and the right column is with the enine running at mid RPM. You can see a 10% or so improvement with the aftermarket R/R. The 700 stator is supposed to be higher performance than the 660, to the tune of 300 Watts vs. 250 Watts (around 20%),from what I understand. However, it seems to me that there have been more problems reported with the 700 stators burning up, than those of the 660's. The newest 700's supposedly have an extra oil line directed to the stator for extra cooling, but this is a very new thing and I am not clear on the actual improvement.

You can run a test like this with a voltmeter on the battery terminals with the equipment off as compared to on full-blast. You should find that the battery voltage will be at right around 12.7 Volts with the ignition switch off. If not, get the battery up to a stable full charge (wall powered charger) to make this a valid test, as a weak battery draws current from the charging system until it is fully charged. When you have the engine running but no auxilliary load, you should see the higher voltage seen toward the top of the charts. When you run the engine and you add the auxilliary load you will see the voltage droop. When the voltage droops to 12.7 Volts, you are drawing as much current as the charging system can provide. When it droops below that, you are drawing power from the battery itself to satisfy the auxilliary load.

I hope that helps.

Great Info!!!

SteveS wrote:

Here is a study that I did on the 660 charging system a long while ago. The 2 columns on the right are for the stock 660 setup and the 2 columns on the left are for an aftermarket Rectifier/Regulator module installed in place of the stock R/R. Of the 2 column sets, the left column is with the engine at idle and the right column is with the enine running at mid RPM. You can see a 10% or so improvement with the aftermarket R/R. The 700 stator is supposed to be higher performance than the 660, to the tune of 300 Watts vs. 250 Watts (around 20%),from what I understand. However, it seems to me that there have been more problems reported with the 700 stators burning up, than those of the 660's. The newest 700's supposedly have an extra oil line directed to the stator for extra cooling, but this is a very new thing and I am not clear on the actual improvement.

You can run a test like this with a voltmeter on the battery terminals with the equipment off as compared to on full-blast. You should find that the battery voltage will be at right around 12.7 Volts with the ignition switch off. If not, get the battery up to a stable full charge (wall powered charger) to make this a valid test, as a weak battery draws current from the charging system until it is fully charged. When you have the engine running but no auxilliary load, you should see the higher voltage seen toward the top of the charts. When you run the engine and you add the auxilliary load you will see the voltage droop. When the voltage droops to 12.7 Volts, you are drawing as much current as the charging system can provide. When it droops below that, you are drawing power from the battery itself to satisfy the auxilliary load.

I hope that helps.

Good to see you here Steve. Your one guy that knows his electrical or maybe just can talk it good enough to convince folks...
I haven't had any issues with my charging system since I replaced the stator with another OEM one. Works like a charm but when they fry they fry. I am still waiting for someone with one of the new Rhino's to produce a picture of this mystery oil line...........maybe someone here will.....again good to read your stuff....

great info as always. thanks, steve!

you the man steve

SteveS, you should put that in a new post and maybe we could get Hotrod to sticky it ! VERY good info !!!!!

Yeah I was able to wrap my head around everything.

Firefighter wrote:

That is a bunch ! Good thing is the 700 has a better stator than the 660. I think the only way You will be able to tell, is to hook it up and see what the draw is. I do run an amp in mine and so far so good ! My amp is only a 250 watt with no stereo. I run a dual battery system with all accessories on the secondary battery and a smart switch connecting the batteries. When able, the stator charges both batteries, but if draw is to much, I only drain second battery. Maybe someone will chime in that has a system like You have !

hey firefighter any write up on your set-up?

Just haven't had time. Bust here is the basics. The main thing to a dual battery setup is the separator switch. I does a lot of things and keep it safe. Here is a description. Long, but worth every penny !

Sure Power: 12V 100A Battery Separator - Bi-Directional w/ Aux Start
Sure Power: 1315 ~ Battery Separator Bi-Directional with Auxiliary Start ~ (Part#: 1315)

The Sure Power Battery Separator is designed for use in multi-battery applications as a excessive loading while allowing auxiliary batteries to be charged. The Sure Power Battery Separator has two basic operational characteristics.

ASSIST IN ENGINE STARTING:
When the starter is activated the Battery Separator compares the voltage of both battery banks. If the chassis' battery is lower the the auxiliary battery bank, the Battery Separator will engage, allowing the auxiliary battery bank to aid in vehicle starting. The start signal must be at least three volts for this operation to occur.

PROTECT THE CHARGING SYSTEM:
Once the engine has started, the Battery Separator monitors the chassis battery and charging system. When the charging system reaches 13.2 Volts, indicating a charged main battery and functioning charging system, the Battery Separator will engage, connecting the auxiliary battery bank to the vehicle charging system. If the drain on the charging system by the auxiliary battery bank reduces the system voltage below 12.8 volts, the Battery Separator will disconnect the auxiliary battery bank, thus protecting the chassis charging system. The process is repeated until the charging system is turned off.

A delay function has been incorporated in the control circuit to prevent the Battery Separator from reacting to momentary voltage fluctuations and chattering.

The priorities are to assist in engine starting, if required, and to protect the charging system from excessive power drain.

Sure Power Battery Separator 1315 Data Sheet (Click Here)
Sure Power Battery Separator 1315 Install Instructions (Click Here)

Voltage: 12 Volts
Amperage: 100 Amps
Approx. Item Weight: 1 Pound

FEATURES:

SIMPLE INSTALLATION:
Connects to primary battery, auxiliary battery and ground. Absolutely no system modifications are necessary.

MULTIPLE BATTERY CHARGING:
The battery separator allows multiple batteries to be charged from one charging source (usually, but not necessarily, an alternator). When the batteries are not being charged, the Battery Separator separates or isolates the batteries.

PRIORITIZED CHARGING:
The Battery Separator waits until the battery connected to the active charging source reaches approximately 13.2 Volts before paralleling and charging the remaining batteries. The system disconnects at approximately 12.8 Volts.

PREVENTS CHARGING SYSTEM OVERLOAD:
If the current requirements are greater then the charging source can produce, the Battery Separator will automatically separate the batteries, thus directing all available charge current to the battery directly connected to the charging source. The system will then reset and re-attempt charging the auxiliary battery. A time delay prevents false switching.

START ASSIST FEATURE:
An optional input from the key switch or a manual switch will program the Battery Separator to parallel the batteries during starting. This feature will only engage if the auxiliary battery has sufficient power available to assist in starting.

Sure Power provides a wide variety of quality products ad engineering services designed to aid in the management of DC electrical systems. Since inventing the Battery Isolator in 1959, Sure Power has been designing and manufacturing innovative, reliable and cost competitive products and services for a wide variety of markets including off-highway, bus, and truck, marine and automotive.

Great info guys, thanks for posting!!!