My console in my rhino is getting very very hot but not overheating

I have a 2009 Yamaha 700 Rhino,The console gets so hot it will burn your arm if you lay it on it and it smells like burning grease,I just had a friend replace the belt and clean all out and he bled the radiator,The radiator is not overheating,and I cant seam to find anyone that knows why this is happening.
Does anybody have any ideas?

air locked,bad thermostat or radiator looks clean and it isnt....if radiator dosent get hot its air locked or thermostat is stuck....

first welcome to site , now you should post up in general or engine , make sure it bleed completely no air in cooling system

My radiator is getting hot but the red light does not come on saying its overheating,fan ran for about 20 minutes after 9 mile road ride before it kicked off,Friend bled the radiator from both the waterpump and the bolt on top of engine.Radiator is flowing and hot.Couple of weeks ago I took the oil cooler off to aid in cleaning radiator,Could that have something to do with it?
Also where is the smell of the burning grease coming from?
The guy that replaced my belt and bled the radiator is very knowledgeable factory sponsored rhino racer.

20 minutes idling..or motor off with the key on

motor off key on

How did you clean your radiator, pressure washer?

Finn cleaner and pressure washer

WVBobby wrote:

motor off key on

that only cools the radiator and the censor is in the head..thats why it ran so long

WVBobby wrote:

Finn cleaner and pressure washer

Check the fins to see if they are bent over not allowing air to pass through.
I don't recommend using a pressure washer on any radiator or oil cooler.

if your cooling system is air locked,,, would the air pocket be forced out by the pressure of the pump pumping the water? will the air pocket just stay there?

Welcome to the site great place to find out info with awesome talent that is on here

welcome man lotsa great help on this site

Welcome.

I suggest using an airlift on the rad. It pulls a vacuum on the cooling sys. Then you close a valve and change hoses. Open valve Fill it from a bucket of clean antifreeze. The airlift removes all air from sys. I use it on every newer Int motor at work I have apart. Never a problem. If you need to find a local garage that uses one. If they look at you funny, walk away. They have needed these for at least 10 yrs. When it vacuums down and holds you know for sure your cooling sys is full, and no air in it.

RhinoGT350 wrote:

if your cooling system is air locked,,, would the air pocket be forced out by the pressure of the pump pumping the water? will the air pocket just stay there?

You have to make the air pocket move. You do that by keeping rad full at all times while running motor with bleed screws open. If you run it the old way to get air out you risk damage. My first guess on a Rhino would be headgasket.

thanks workhorserhino

i bleed mine engine cold and not running

Workhorserhino wrote:

I suggest using an airlift on the rad. It pulls a vacuum on the cooling sys. Then you close a valve and change hoses. Open valve Fill it from a bucket of clean antifreeze. The airlift removes all air from sys. I use it on every newer Int motor at work I have apart. Never a problem. If you need to find a local garage that uses one. If they look at you funny, walk away. They have needed these for at least 10 yrs. When it vacuums down and holds you know for sure your cooling sys is full, and no air in it.

pulling vacuum on the system is the best way to fill any system. works great and is fast and like you said no bubbles. I have had one for several years and man they are handy. it paid for itself the first time I had one to refill a bobcat cooling system. those used to be a pain in the freaking ass.