I think i screwed up my brakes

I recently changed my brake pads as well as calipers... When i was bleeding the system back i noticed that i grabbed the wrong fluid and put dot3 in the system.... The next day, i flushed the system with dot4 and bleed the system again... Now i seem to have no brakes unless i stand on the pedel. What do i have to do to get it right again....

Are you losing any fluid out around seals or anything? if all the fluid is still in there and not on the floor i would say that you still have air in there. Keep bleeding and then it will come out. I dont think dot 3 eats the seals out that were made for dot 4 it just doesnt hold up to the temp and usage that dot 4 does. So as long as you get it bled out you should be fine.

I did bleed it again after i started having this issue.... Someone kinda mentioned to me that dot3 will swell the rubber lines and seals making it hard for it to work properly... is that so?????

And when i say stand on the pedel, i mean its that hard to push....

How did you flush the system ? Did you drain it then put the new in of just run a bunch of new through the system ? If you drained it I'm betting it has air in the system someplace.

It's air in the system. DOT3 and DOT4 are compatable and interchangeable, DOT 4 has a higher temp rating is all. If you put DOT5 in there you will have huge problem as it will eat the seals.

my buddy's 4 wheeler did the same thing. we bleed the system 10 times and it never worked. finally we took it to a shop and they hooked it up to a machine that bleeds break systems with in 10 min the breaks worked great. the machine got all the air out of the lines that we could not get.

Yeah bro, DOT 3 is fine.
You just got to get the air out. It is a pain to get it bleed. When I replaced a caliper it was the same deal. I used DOT 3 because it was all that the local auto parts sold.

DOT THREE IS FINE IT CAN BE USED IN ALMOST ANY VEHICLE, DOT FIVE WITH SILICONE IS NOT TO BE USED UNLESS ESPECIALLY ASKED FOR AND DOES NOT MIX WITH ANY OTHER FLUID. START BLEEDING YOUR SYSTEM AT THE MASTER CYLINDER THEN, RR,LR,RF AND LF.
WHEN BLEEDING THE MASTER DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKE TO FAST AND SHOULD PUMP HOLD CRACK THE LINES AT THE MASTER AND DO THIS UNTIL NO AIR IS SEEN THEN AT THE WHEELS STARTING FARTHEST FROM THE MASTER. DOT FOUR HAS A HIGHER BOILING TEMP THAT DOT THREE.

Try pumping the petal rapidly. If the brakes come up when you pump them, that is a sure sign you have air in the system. (don't pump them when the bleed screw is open). I have never used one but i once saw a tool that pumped the brake fluid in from the bleed valve up to the master. It was said that it made it eaiser to get the air bubbles out because they naturally travel up. You should be able to get them by using the method bert0612 described though.

Thanks. Ill try that as son as I get a brake peddle pumper lol

you might pick one of these up and it will probably take care of your problem
Brake bleeder

You attatch it at the caliper and pump it

That's what I had to use when I replaced my caliper works pretty good and with fresh fluid u can just put it back in your machine.

Yea. I have a little check valve thingy that I was using that actually worked pretty good but like always its gone when u need it.

I got a brake bleeder tank from Harbor Freight best 25.00 ever spent . fill your resi hook tank to wheel bleeder add air done in few minuets. just keep resi full .
Had the mighty vac hand deal always was messing up &making a mess

THERE ARE BRAKE BLEEDERS THAT ATTACH TO THE RESERVIOR OPENING AND PRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM,BUT EXPENSIVE,MINE DOES THE HOLE SYSTEM IS FIVE MINUTES. GOOD RESULTS CAN BE DONE WITH A BUDDIES HELPING HAND WITH OUT SPECIAL TOOLS,IF THE MASTER IS NOT AIRFREE YOU WILL WASTING YOUR TIME BLEEDING THE WHEELS,