clean up your wiring.. Bitches

Just added a 7 circuit painless wiring block 70207. Should have done this long ago....

love mine!!

Your wiring or your bitches?

worthless with out pictures, so show us your bad ass shit

I'm glad I installed mine 6 years ago before doing my electrical mods.

rhinobucket wrote:

Your wiring or your bitches?

You be careful or he'll be getting the whip out! jk jk

ordered a blue sea marine fuse block wish I would have done this as one of my first mods, will have to do some cleaning up also bitches

Dumb question, I think, when you wire up the block what do most tie into to make it hot? Like the accessory plug wire? That way the fuse block is hot when the key is on. I may have over thought the whole wiring thing and may have just answered my own question.

worthless post without pic's and write up

ASPENDELL ROVER wrote:

worthless post without pic's and write up

X2

foyota86 wrote:

Dumb question, I think, when you wire up the block what do most tie into to make it hot? Like the accessory plug wire? That way the fuse block is hot when the key is on. I may have over thought the whole wiring thing and may have just answered my own question.

You would probably not want to power the fuse block itself from the accessories power wire. You would be limited to 10 Amps for everything that you put onto the new fuse block (small wire gauge size and it is fused at 10A at the Rhino fuse block).

You would want to power the new fuse block directly off of the battery + terminal (or anywhere along the heavy red wire connected to it, there is a good spot on the starter relay) , then you have full power to all of the fuses in the new fuse block. If you got the fuse block with a built in relay (there will be circuits identified as 'Igniton Hot' or a similar name on your new fuse block), you are set. Run the coil of that built in relay from your accessories plug power. The relay contacts connect the battery voltage to its fuses when the coil is energized by the igniton hot Rhino wiring. Some of these aftermarket fuse blocks have a combination of 'Ignition Hot' and 'Battery hot' fuse positions. This means that there is a direct connection to the battery on some of those positions.

If you got the simplest type of fuse block (no built in relay), you would have all 'Battery Hot' circuits if you connect it directly to the battery. The remedy is to put in a heavy duty relay between the battery and the new fuse block. The most common automotive relay is good for 30 Amps total draw. They are also available in 40A and 80A ratings (the terminals are much larger with the largest rating), but you will probably have to ask for these. You wire one side the coil to the same Rhino ignition hot circuit as mentioned before and the other side of the coil to ground.

If you have not figured this all out already, I hope that this helps.

thanks steve, you are most helpful, mine doesn't have the built in relay

thanks guys cancelled order and got the painless 70207

madmax 1 wrote:

thanks guys cancelled order and got the painless 70207

Good choice. I saw that it comes with a primary circuit breaker to protect the circuit going to the fuse block. That is a necessity for safety that I forgot to mention. It serves the same function for your auxiliary circuitry that the Rhino 30A main fuse does for the stock circuitry.

so what should I buy and where, I am gonna need a winch soon. thx...steve, your the man!

ASPENDELL ROVER wrote:

so what should I buy and where, I am gonna need a winch soon. thx...steve, your the man!

You are welcome. The winch is a different animal that most all auxiliary stuff that you can add. It will draw so much current that it comes with it's own "relay", actually called a contactor due to it's huge current capacity. The wiring will be directly to the battery positive and negative terminals with (likely 6 gauge or heavier) battery cable. this heavy wire is from battery to contactor and then from contactor to motor. It will come with a destruction sheet on how to hook it all up.

There is a 12VDC power connection that will be needed to power the contactor's coil circuitry (switches the contactor from 'pull' to 'off' to 'unwind'). The control circuitry, sometimes including remote control, draws very little current and you can tap into the Rhino circuitry to borrow some. Not to say that you cannot use power off of a fuse block, but not really neccessary if you do not have other auxilliary stuff to power anyway.

so why the fuse block, for what...etc?

ASPENDELL ROVER wrote:

so why the fuse block, for what...etc?

People put on bright aux lights, beefy stereos, air pumps, water pumps (radiator flush at the creek), heated seats, extra fans, and all sorts of other stuff. These items are high current draw and can easily overtax the stock Rhino wiring. If you have something drawing maybe 10 Amps or more, it is a good idea to power it independently of the Rhino circuitry. 5 amps, maybe, especially if you have several independent draws.

List the sort of things that you have added or are planning to or might add in the future. As I said, a winch is a special case, as you would not be powering the current hungry stuff through any fuses at all (power directly from battery).

ASPENDELL ROVER wrote:

so why the fuse block, for what...etc?

I was asking myself the same thing, until i started adding things to mine that require 12v connection. Now I see why people have added a fuse block, nice clean location to tap into a 12v. On my need list now...

Oh yea, thanks Steve!

SteveS wrote:

ASPENDELL ROVER wrote:

so why the fuse block, for what...etc?

People put on bright aux lights, beefy stereos, air pumps, water pumps (radiator flush at the creek), heated seats, extra fans, and all sorts of other stuff. These items are high current draw and can easily overtax the stock Rhino wiring. If you have something drawing maybe 10 Amps or more, it is a good idea to power it independently of the Rhino circuitry. 5 amps, maybe, especially if you have several independent draws.

List the sort of things that you have added or are planning to or might add in the future. As I said, a winch is a special case, as you would not be powering the current hungry stuff through any fuses at all (power directly from battery).

Steve, currently I run 4 35w hids, and power steering,does that warrant a fuse block? Am I pushing it? Thanks

ASPENDELL ROVER wrote:

Steve, currently I run 4 35w hids, and power steering,does that warrant a fuse block? Am I pushing it? Thanks

The bank of 4x 35 watt HIDs will draw around 12A while running. They will draw perhaps 1-1/2 times that at start up, so that comes up to 18 Amps. That circuit will need a 20Amp fuse, assuming you are running them on a single circuit. The power steering is probably a pretty heavy draw, you will have to check the manufacturer's fusing recommendation (worst case will be when you have the steering cranked over to the lock and stall the drive motor).

Both of those circuits should be independent of the stock wiring harness. Assuming both of those are 20 A fused circuits, You probably should use 14 gauge or larger wire (5% voltage drop over 8 ft at 20 A, this considers total length of both power and ground wiring).

Now the question: Do I have to use a fancy fuse block? No, wiring is wiring. For the light circuit you can do this with an in-line fuse holder and heavy 20A switch if you want a battery hot circuit (can turn the light on with the igniton key off). If you don't want to have to remember to turn the light off, you will want to use a relay controlled by the rhino ignition hot circuitry, the dash switch then becomes any switch that you want (low current draw of the relay coil only).

For the second circuit for the power steering you would need a fuse holder and relay to shut the circuit off when the ignition is off. If the worst case current draw is greater than 20A then the wiring needs to be bigger (30A would need 12 ga or larger).

You could use an aftermarket fuse block with an 'ignition hot relay' built in to do the above, leaving only the wire and a 20A switch for the lights to buy. It would be ready to add additonal circuits in the future and would probably look cleaner. It is very convenient to have all of your auxiliary fuses in a single box, should you need to do trouble shooting. When you have more than perhaps 2 circuits to worry about, the fuse block approach certainly makes sense. However, individual wiring still works, just messier and less convenient.

This is the start of my install of a blue sea fuse block. I'm going to run the ground buss directly to the negative terminal of the battery. My question(for Steve, lol) is I'm confused from a previous post about what I have to do to the positive buss to make it switched and not always hot?  Thanks in advance all. 

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YOUR RIGHT, FIXING MY BIRDS NEST THIS WEEKEND.