Question for James

Ok I should be receiving my sheave kits any time, today tomorrow. What size impact sockets am I going to need to remove primary, secondary, and spring nuts, also is there any larger nuts to get to the wet clutch I need to get a bigger socket for? When using the impact do I keep the rhino in gear or neutral? And the O-Rings on the secondary, does the kit come with new? I don't think they are bad cause no grease on my sheaves now but just a question. What should I look for if they are bad? 2600 miles on the ole gal. Any help is much appreciated.

I'll be doing a 06 660 and a 09 700 so if the sizes are different I'll need both. Thanks

I wanna say a 7/8" socket on both for the clutch. I can't remember exactly what size the secondary nut is. I wanna say 1-5/16". Everything else is small.

The nut to take off the primary and secondary on the 700 takes a 22mm or a 7/8" socket. The spring nut is eithe a 45mm or 46mm socket, I used a 1 13/16" socket and it worked good for me.

I'm not sure about the 660...

Good luck!!! It's an easy job, just a little time consuming getting everything off and out of the way to get to the sheaves.

Thanks guys for the response, I'm going to start tearing them down tonight, just was wanting to know if they were some bastard sizes.

22mm and a 1 13/16

Gyrene wrote:

The nut to take off the primary and secondary on the 700 takes a 22mm or a 7/8" socket. The spring nut is eithe a 45mm or 46mm socket, I used a 1 13/16" socket and it worked good for me.

 You are correct

Thanks James and gang.

What about keeping it in gear or neutral when hitting it with the impact?

I personally put it neutral, I don't want that shock from the impact transferring through the internal components such as gears in mesh and such.

Others may say different, that's just how I do it and my reasoning behind it.

I also put the Rhino and my 4 wheeler in neutral when I strap them down on the trailer for transporting because of the back and forth movement, even though it's only a little movement, it's not good on the same components for the same reasons as using an impact while in gear. I rode with a guy one time that hauled his in gear and the belt worked into the sheave a little deeper while pulling tight one way then the other way as it moved back and forth on the trailer and it made a heck of a squawk sound when he went to move it and it lurched pretty hard too when it finally moved lol.

Hope this helps...

It does thanks, I also haul mine in neutral so with the impact it makes sense

Now you guys have me wondering about hauling these on my trailer.  I have always used the reasoning that in case the straps would loosen somehow (I always use 4 ratchet straps on each and have had them loosen) I drive my Rhino and 4-wheelers onto the trailer in 4wd Low and leave them that way with the brakes locked.  That way I have all 4 wheels engaged and 'locked' if you will.  My trailer is a flat bed car hauler and doesn't have rails or a gate around back.

I may have to rethink what I do.

Steve

When u strap your machine down there should be zero back and forth movement anyway so what's the difference if u left it in gear??

honda450sfm wrote:

When u strap your machine down there should be zero back and forth movement anyway so what's the difference if u left it in gear??

 There is no back and forth movement when I first strap it down but after a couple of miles on these rough and I mean rough South Carolina roads the straps usually work a little loose, happens every time with every type of strap I've ever used.

Even with tight straps the machine can move a little sometimes as the suspension compresses while hitting these rough spots, the straps lose tension when the shocks compress, even if you strap to the chassis the tires compress a little and you get the same affect while traveling down the road hitting bumps, even expansion joints on concrete roads, it's compounded when you have both the shocks and tires compressing at the same time.

I always check the straps several times each trip and I always tighten them a little each time I check them, it's not much but enough to allow the back and forth motion that I think could damage the internals.

If I remember correctly my owners manual for my Suzuki King Quad says to transport in neutral, I'll check that out later, my Rhino manual is in the house and it doesn't mention anything at all about tying it down for transport.

I'm not going to say one way is better than the other and I've read on several forums that some put it in gear and some in neutral, like I said in my earlier post "Others may say different, that's just how I do it and my reasoning behind it." some do the opposite than what I do as do some others do it the same, but what I do works for me.

Ride safe

4wh low and brakes locked here when I tie mine down on the trailer,just what I do.

^^...the e-brake is the only thing keeping it from moving...being in gear will not keep it from rolling backwards.

A deep well 6-point 22mm works best