ALBA 734 Big Bore for 2011 Rhino 700

Here is a quick video I made of me doing a test run. There's a little joy riding through the cattle pasture for the first minute or so, then I get out on my trusty stretch of road in front of the ranch and drop the hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_YWRcL94S8&feature=youtu.be

It's not super fast. Heck it might not even seem all that much faster on film versus my video when I had just the cam and throttle body and Muzzys. But trust me, this 734cc kit picked up some torque or something. I have never been able to spin my tires like this.

Also, this was with the Muzzy whisper cores and turndowns installed. The whisper cors do steal a little power but they are so much quieter than running them wide open.

Looks great chris,60-65 is all your gonna get out of these single cylinder motors!!!without nitrous!!

nice

RedRhino64 wrote:

Looks great chris,60-65 is all your gonna get out of these single cylinder motors!!!without nitrous!!

Thanks man! I have my MSD set to 8000RPM. If I bump it up to 8500RPM then I can wind it out to 64MPH or so on a flat stretch but that takes a little while to get there. I don't consider that a very realistic top speed for my setup. Honestly, I don't get up over 50MPH very often. Out on the trails and in the pastures 40MPH is starting to get dicey. A lot can go wrong at that speed where I ride.

The acceleration is what is so welcome, as is the out of the hole punch. Down in the river bottoms and in the deep mud, that initial burst of power, and then the torque to spin up all four wheels up to speed while half covered in clay is what gets these cars moving.

WV Hot Rod Rhino wrote:

nice

Thanks James. It means a lot coming from you. I might not have "Hot Rod" status but I am proud to have your sheave and proud to say you have helped me with this build more than you rightly had to.

sounds good!! and thanks....do you have any air box mods

The only thing done to the air box is I have removed the rubber snoot from the lid. Oh, and a drop in Uni replacement filter.

Glad you finally got her goin.. looks like sh moves on pretty good

Bumpers wrote:

Glad you finally got her goin.. looks like sh moves on pretty good

Thanks! I did some minor drag racing on a sand drag strip.
I was able to easily beat a Honda Rincon 680.

I learned that I can accelerate substantially faster by running in 4x4 and preloading the clutch a little. Just put her in 4WD High, hold the brakes, give it some throttle, and when the green light comes hold the throttle to the floor.

I had a passenger with me, running 26x9 Bighorn OG, and was still able to beat two different Rincons on 25" tires.

Let me be clear- I didn't buy or build my Rhino for racing. But it's nice to see how it runs versus some other well-known ATVs. You know, it's a way to verify and quantify how much speed and acceleration I gained.

Just for the record, I've also beaten a Yamaha Wolverine and a 2008 RZR (non S model with the 55hp motor). I feel like I could take a RZR-S and it would be a close call with a Grizzly 700; a Grizz would probably get me if he was running stock tires.

Again, I just wanted to thank all the guys who helped with this build. It's a fun ride. I can only imagine how a Grizzly 700 would be with these mods.

Chris, what would it cost a man for the Big Bore Kit? I'm just like you, need all the bottom end power I can get. thx for your help, inbox me if you want. Thx.

The 734cc big bore kit was $649 from Team Alba Racing.

I'm not as brave as you, I may have to pay someone to install for me. Thx for the info, waiting on James to tweak my throttle body and map this weekend, he is also sending me the clutch slugs, next for me is the Big Bore. Cant wait!! Thx Chris.

ChrisH wrote:

Bumpers wrote:

Glad you finally got her goin.. looks like sh moves on pretty good

Thanks! I did some minor drag racing on a sand drag strip.
I was able to easily beat a Honda Rincon 680.

I learned that I can accelerate substantially faster by running in 4x4 and preloading the clutch a little. Just put her in 4WD High, hold the brakes, give it some throttle, and when the green light comes hold the throttle to the floor.

I had a passenger with me, running 26x9 Bighorn OG, and was still able to beat two different Rincons on 25" tires.

Let me be clear- I didn't buy or build my Rhino for racing. But it's nice to see how it runs versus some other well-known ATVs. You know, it's a way to verify and quantify how much speed and acceleration I gained.

Just for the record, I've also beaten a Yamaha Wolverine and a 2008 RZR (non S model with the 55hp motor). I feel like I could take a RZR-S and it would be a close call with a Grizzly 700; a Grizz would probably get me if he was running stock tires.

Again, I just wanted to thank all the guys who helped with this build. It's a fun ride. I can only imagine how a Grizzly 700 would be with these mods.

Man..that rhino is running great,Congrats on your build and the extra power!!...and no oil leaks!

RedRhino64 wrote:

Man..that rhino is running great,Congrats on your build and the extra power!!...and no oil leaks!

ZING!
No oil leaks yet. Which is always a good thing. LoL


On a more serious note, when can I start trusting this motor? I've got over a hundred miles on it and about 12 hours. I would think if were gonna blow or if I did something wrong I'd already know... maybe... right? I just don't trust it 100% yet.

Should be good to go,if you did something wrong you would allready know! drive it like you stole it!!! lol

Nice looking ride sounds great to. What kind of plastic is that it almost looked like pearl white carbon fiber when the sun hit it.

T.Rhino wrote:

What kind of plastic is that it almost looked like pearl white carbon fiber when the sun hit it.

Thanks for the compliment, man!
My Rhino is what Yamaha calls "White Armor." It should be the same snake skin and flame looking scheme as James' but only mine is a white color and his is the red. As far as I know, the "armor" sport edition plastics are model year specific for the Rhino 700. Therefore:

2008 Sport = Midnight (black) Armor;
2009 Sport = Red Armor;
[no 2010 Rhino Sport was manufactured as far as I know]
2011 Sport = White Armor
2012 Sport departed from the "Armor" plastics theme and was replaced with a metallic sandstone color.

yep congrats on the build that was a wicked thread, comical at times and i think everyone of us was feeling your pain from time to time. i cant wait to do what you have done and i cant wait to see that thing turned into a killer mud machine beatin down rzrs

think you did great , that was good price on kit , glad it up an running so good think your good to go time to let rip

I think I may have a head gasket problem.

Yesterday when checking cattle and just casually riding around I noticed my overflow bottle had a higher level than normal. It wasn't overflowing or anything, I just noticed the level was about 2-3" higher than usual.

The coolant hoses are not firm with pressure when the motor is up to temperature. The motor is not running hot on my gauge nor is the OEM hot light illuminated.

After a short 20 minute time to cool down, I carefully opened the radiator cap and did a visual inspection. The level was up to the top. I restarted the motor without the cap to see any signs of bubbles or oil in the coolant (I am running Engine Ice).

I could see the coolant flowing normally. I did not see any oil. I am seeing a few tiny pin-sized bubbles. If I rev the motor with the radiator cap removed, I see the level drop down to below the top row and can see the flow increase. I think I can see more bubbles.

After letting the motor completely cool for several hours, I notice that the level in the radiator is down a few inches.

The engine oil is not milked. The motor runs great. I just suspect that I may have a head gasket problem. Coolant may be getting into the combustion chamber and compression into the water jackets. I'm not sure. I'm currently running the Cometic multi-layer head gasket. Any pointers or advice?

Thanks

doesnt sound like a head gasket. Sounds more like you may have air in your lines and its working its way out. If you had a head gasket problem the 2 fluids would be mixing and you would be able to tell right away. The reason you see the level drop when you rev it is because the water pump is moving faster then and pumping more fluid. probably compressing the air bubble just a bit also

If you raise the front of the rhino and break the bleader loose located in the thermostat housing is a good way to burb or bleed your radiator and lines. And thanks for the discription on the plastic it looks really cool first one I have seen like that I thank I like it better then the other models with that style paint.

https://youtu.be/XCYp3IHatCk

Above is a link to a 1:30 video clip. Please watch it and tell me what you think. Near the end especially, where the fan kicks on. Does anything look weird in the radiator?

Cool thread Chris, one of these days I'll have a bigger toy and want to spend bigger $$$ also. Enjoy the step by step storyline and pic. The input from others is great info for future builders also. Look forward to seeing it come together for you.

Hello ChrisH,I tottaly enjoyed readying about your big bore kit project,I now have the same big bore kit also and just wanted to check on the ring gap.Top ring gap .018 and middle ring .022,i just wanted to double check on the gaps esspecially the middle ring gap,thank you.

Yes, rhinopg, those are the specs that I determined from the CP piston manual and what Nate from Alba recommended to me.