My wet clutch is screwed

I had a problem with my rhino not wanting to go into or come out of gear. It was like it was bound up. After a little reasrch I thought it might be the oneway bearing. So I pulled everything apart tonight and NOPE the oneway bearing is fine. Its everthing else that's bad

When I pulled the cover off and saw what I thought was roller bearings turned out to be the pins from the clutch. Oh well I just have to work some OT now lol When they fell out it took out the drum too

here are the pic's.

ouch. how many miles on it, scott?

James , I'll be giving you a call when I get the cash.

Anyone need a new 40" double row CREE led bar

I have no ide , I bought it used from a dealer last yr and he said he had put a new wet clutch in it. It doesn't have the dig display.

The clutch material at one end looked like it had a good amount of material on it but when the pins came out and the springs came off the shoes they didn't pull back in and just rode on the drum.

flimmy wrote:

I have no ide , I bought it used from a dealer last yr and he said he had put a new wet clutch in it. ................

I'm wondering if something was not put together quite properly. It would seem possible that maybe something was left out (or some such thing) during a replacement of the shoes only. There might be a reason Yamaha only offers the whole assembly as a replacement. When you get a new one it might be helpful for all of us if you carefully compare the old vs the new.

I have never seen a wet clutch do that before, That really sucks!

Wow! sorry to hear that.

I'll get some side by side shots when i get the new clutch. I'll be adding weights to the new one too

UnderDawg wrote:

Wow! sorry to hear that.

Thanks , shit happens out could be worse

Looks like james is going to have an extra bright rhino!

CustomizedRhino13 wrote:

Looks like james is going to have an extra bright rhino!

He already has a bar he just needs to get his rhino fixed so he can get to use it and I'm already set up with a replacement clutch

sorry to hear about the clutch just got mine from James a couple wk back ,just thought mine was shot if you can see what caused it to come apart please post think we all would like to know

How long were you having problems with the gear engagement and dis-engagement Scott? Looks like it really toasted things. Did the dealer replace the whole clutch or just the pads? Downtime sucks!

with all those metal sheaving's in your oil may want to flush several times after you put back together to try to remove the fine grind dust of metal just a thought I added weight to mine also super easy, little bird shot weighed out an melt to pore, good luck with it

I might try something a friend used to do when I was a kid. He would fill the crank case with kerosene and turn the motor over. Not start it just turn it over and then drain it. He would do it a few times then fill it with oil. He said it would clean everything out. I won't do it with the new clutch I'll just throw the old drum in add oil then pull the plug wire

wow...might wanna see if you can clean the oil pump screen too

WV Hot Rod Rhino wrote:

wow...might wanna see if you can clean the oil pump screen too

Good idea where on the motor is it

might have to pull the stater cover off too to get it all out

can you get to the screen without going in cases ? the kerosene might be good had not heard that one in a while , over winter bought some for my heater in shop an holy shit at the price

wowzers...

put a strong magnet near the bottom of the crankcase and/or get a magnetic drain plug if you can find one. the first couple times you change the oil and filter take the magnet off and let the oil drain. you can also drag another magnet through the drained oil and/or split the filter to check for residual metal frags.

08Rhino450SE wrote:

put a strong magnet near the bottom of the crankcase and/or get a magnetic drain plug if you can find one. the first couple times you change the oil and filter take the magnet off and let the oil drain. you can also drag another magnet through the drained oil and/or split the filter to check for residual metal frags.

Thanks I was thinking last night about the magnetic drain plug. I just have to figure out the thread on the plug and try to find one with the same thread. I thought about putting a magnet on the filter also

rhino727 wrote:

can you get to the screen without going in cases ? the kerosene might be good had not heard that one in a while , over winter bought some for my heater in shop an holy shit at the price

no.. but there is a couple holes that would make it easier to flush out....

magnetic plugs on ebay

flimmy wrote:

Thanks I was thinking last night about the magnetic drain plug. I just have to figure out the thread on the plug and try to find one with the same thread. I thought about putting a magnet on the filter also

Gold plug sells them. They have a search feature where you can specify your year/make/model/engine.