Differential and 4x4 wont disengage

Went on a ride into town to get fuel.  Shut off the motor and it wouldn't start again.   To make a long story short the main ground vibrated loose and after re tightening it started right up.   Only problem is that for some reason the short made the 4x4 and locking differential engaged.   Neither button was pushed in.   When i push the buttons, i can hear something trying to engage but it just blows the fuse and nothing happens.   I tried to remove the housing (undid 3 larger 8mm screws)  but cant get the housing to come off the differential.  Not sure what to do at this point and dont want to take it to the stealership.  The service manual doesnt really seem to address this.   Anybody have this happen?   Any thoughts on how to fix?

I wonder if you were to use a couple of jumper wires to the motor one way then reverse to see if it moves and unsticks.

123.bert0621 wrote:

I wonder if you were to use a couple of jumper wires to the motor one way then reverse to see if it moves and unsticks.

Ummm, beware. I believe that the servomotor works with much less than 12 Volts DC. You risk burning the motor up if you do a simple jumper. I'm not absolutely sure on this, but better safe than sorry.

SteveS wrote:

123.bert0621 wrote:

I wonder if you were to use a couple of jumper wires to the motor one way then reverse to see if it moves and unsticks.

Ummm, beware. I believe that the servomotor works with much less than 12 Volts DC. You risk burning the motor up if you do a simple jumper. I'm not absolutely sure on this, but better safe than sorry.

Better add a 5 amp fuse to that jumper then.

123.bert0621 wrote:

SteveS wrote:

123.bert0621 wrote:

I wonder if you were to use a couple of jumper wires to the motor one way then reverse to see if it moves and unsticks.

Ummm, beware. I believe that the servomotor works with much less than 12 Volts DC. You risk burning the motor up if you do a simple jumper. I'm not absolutely sure on this, but better safe than sorry.

Better add a 5 amp fuse to that jumper then.

It is a tiny little motor, I doubt it would handle 5 A. A smaller fuse maybe? It is risky business.

EDIT: Stock fuse for that circuit is 3 Amps. Also, the schematic shows shows 6 wires coming out of that 'motor', and 8 in and out wires involved with the switch itself, good luck.

Best bet at first is to check the function of that stock fuse and also the 2 relays involved in the circuit.

The relays are clicking....feel like i will have to replace the servo mechanism but i cant even get it off the differential.   Is there more than 3bolts that i am seeing holding it in place?.   Do I have to disassemble the entire front end to service it?

Shevalik wrote:

The relays are clicking....feel like i will have to replace the servo mechanism but i cant even get it off the differential.   Is there more than 3bolts that i am seeing holding it in place?.   Do I have to disassemble the entire front end to service it?

Look through the service manual again. There should be a section on taking it apart and putting it back together again. Pay close attention as to the positions things have to be in when you disassemble and re-assemble.

I think there's 4 bolts...one of them is one of those "tamper-resistant" type. I doubt you'll be able to jump it over.

There's a thread on the "other forum" ,  where a guy shows how to repair them.

Shevalik wrote:

Went on a ride into town to get fuel.  Shut off the motor and it wouldn't start again.   To make a long story short the main ground vibrated loose and after re tightening it started right up.   Only problem is that for some reason the short made the 4x4 and locking differential engaged.   Neither button was pushed in.   When i push the buttons, i can hear something trying to engage but it just blows the fuse and nothing happens.   I tried to remove the housing (undid 3 larger 8mm screws)  but cant get the housing to come off the differential.  Not sure what to do at this point and dont want to take it to the stealership.  The service manual doesnt really seem to address this.   Anybody have this happen?   Any thoughts on how to fix?

Going back to the beginning of this thread....You say that the ground cable circuit opened up. Then you say that it was shorted out???? Was this the battery negative cable connection to the engine case? You would not have an open circuit and a shorted circuit at the same time and it would make a huge difference as to what might have happened.

Going on the assumption that the case ground cable circuit was open..... This sets up a situation where the act of turning the key to crank the engine causes the starter motor current draw to find a new path to the battery negative terminal. With the stock Rhino circuitry this means that the current flows through the battery negative pigtail ground wire. This is the small black wire, siamesed into the battery negative lug on the ground cable, which is connected to the wire harness daisy chain ground wire via a bullet connector quick connect, just behind the battery. The problem here is that all of that starter motor current is being fed through that wimpy wire harness grounding wire.

The first obvious thing that usually happens is that pigtail coming off of the battery negative terminal overheats big time. Check it for overheating, it can be melted down to the point that it is crispy crittered. The wire melt-down can also be elsewhere in the daisy chain ground as all of the weak points in the chain will overheat simultaneously. What you may have here is a loss of a ground connection that is critical to the function of the 4WD circuit circuitry.

Take a look around for overheated black wires and let us know if you see anything obvious.

I'm at work right now but i will check for melted wires.   The cable that came loose is the larger black one that attaches to the motor on the passenger side towards the front of the motor.   I think a 10mm bolt holds it in place.   When it didnt start, it acted like when a battery runs low in a car.   Clicks, noises, all the indicator lights came on.  I took the engine cover off and luckily saw the arc when i hit the key, otherwise I would probably still be sitting at the gas station.   After I tightened the bolt, it started right up, only the difflock icon was on the display and red indicator light was on.   I drove it about 3 blocks to get it to my brothers house and off the street.   I will try to look in the manual to confirm the exact cable that came loose

Just verified on the manual it is the ground lead.  Item#9 on page 2-39

I dont guess short is the correct word.   It came loose and did not have a solid connection.

Shevalik wrote:

I'm at work right now but i will check for melted wires.   The cable that came loose is the larger black one that attaches to the motor on the passenger side towards the front of the motor.   I think a 10mm bolt holds it in place.   When it didnt start, it acted like when a battery runs low in a car.   Clicks, noises, all the indicator lights came on.  I took the engine cover off and luckily saw the arc when i hit the key, otherwise I would probably still be sitting at the gas station.   After I tightened the bolt, it started right up, only the difflock icon was on the display and red indicator light was on.   I drove it about 3 blocks to get it to my brothers house and off the street.   I will try to look in the manual to confirm the exact cable that came loose

From your description, yes that is the cable and the spot that I was talking about. It seems to be a fairly common thing with these Rhinos. There is a good chance that your 4WD problem is ground failure related then. That excess current flow can take out a critical grounding connection just about anywhere, the trick may be finding it.

Here is a thread (there are more to be found as well) that goes into the proper fix so that the ground connection loosening up does not cause any damage. There are graphic pictures of badly burnt wires and the like, fair warning if you have a weak stomach    
https://hotrodrhinoforums.forumotion.com/t1104-improve-your-grounding

https://hotrodrhinoforums.forumotion.com/t1490-grounding-accessories
MAKE YOUR GROUNDS ON BARE METAL,NO PAINT OR RUST AND THROW ON A STAR WASHER WITH LOTS OF DIELECTRIC COMPOUND.

My brother was able to get the servo motor out and test it.  It was bad.   Things could be worse, but it sure does seem like my rebuild is taking forever to get the bugs 100% worked out. Hahahaha.